{"id":4407,"date":"2024-03-16T12:01:59","date_gmt":"2024-03-16T10:01:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ch.jfdi.cc\/?p=4407"},"modified":"2024-03-16T12:01:59","modified_gmt":"2024-03-16T10:01:59","slug":"hash-fudge-and-a-fish-for-picasso","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ch.jfdi.cc\/?p=4407","title":{"rendered":"Hash fudge and a fish for Picasso"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Alice Gorman looks <\/strong>inside the legendary cookbook of Alice B Toklas<\/p>\n<p>Alice B. Toklas wrote one of the bestselling cookbooks of all time. One reason for its popularity was the inclusion of stories of her 39-year relationship with the great modernist writer Gertrude Stein. Another was its recipe for hash fudge, which made Toklas an icon of 1960s counterculture.This other Alice died when I was three years old. (The B, incidentally, stands for Babette.) When I realised The Alice B Toklas Cook Book had been published 70 years ago in 1954, I decided it was finally time to become better acquainted.Toklas was born in San Francisco in 1877. She studied piano at the University of Washington in Seattle. In 1907, when she was 29, she travelled to Paris and met Gertrude Stein the day after she arrived. It was love at first sight.In the book Stein wrote about their life, The Autobiography of Alice B Toklas, Stein has Toklas say: \u201cI was impressed by the coral brooch she wore and by her voice.\u201d The brooch is now in the collections of the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge UK, and appears in Pablo Picasso\u2019s famous portrait of Stein.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-763839 lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/ch.jfdi.cc\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/hash-fudge-and-a-fish-for-picasso.jpg\" alt=\"recipes3 the cook book\" width=\"183\" height=\"300\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 183px) 100vw, 183px\">The women moved in together and presided over one of the most renowned literary and artistic salons of the time, entertaining Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, Francis Picabia, Henri Matisse, Edith Sitwell, Natalie Barney, and many others.Surrealists rubbed shoulders with cubists and modernists, the exchange of ideas lubricated by delicious food and drink. Toklas was in charge of catering, but they also employed a series of cooks for the day-to-day.In the 1920s and 30s, Paris was crawling with American migrants or \u201cexpats\u201d. Stein and Toklas were a tourist attraction. If you had an introduction, you could visit 27 Rue de Fleurus and its incredible art collection.In WWI, Stein and Toklas drove delivery trucks. In their 60s when WWII began, they decided to wait it out. By this time, Stein was increasingly unwell with stomach cancer. Stein and Toklas moved to the country, but continued to receive visitors and entertain.Stein died in hospital in 1946 with Toklas by her side. Toklas said in a letter to a friend that it was the end to all happiness. It devastated her. But it also allowed her to come into her own. She started to put together the cookbook that made her practically a household name.Toklas\u2019 literary output was two cookbooks and a memoir.The Alice B Toklas Cook Book was much more than a collection of recipes. It was also semi-autobiographical. It included observations of the differences between French and American food cultures, culinary tales involving their famous friends, and stories of wartime life.In his book The Gourmands\u2019 Way \u2013 Six Americans in Paris and the Birth of a New Gastronomy, Justin Spring called it a \u201cbrilliant, deftly comic hybrid\u201d.Janet Malcolm, in her 2007 book Two Lives: Gertrude and Alice, says that \u201cmost of Toklas\u2019 recipes were and remain too elaborate or too strange to attempt\u201d. The sentiment is echoed by other commentators. Is this a fair assessment?Certainly, there are recipes like the \u201chen with golden eggs\u201d, where a boiled chicken is stuffed with mashed potatoes shaped into eggs and fried in butter until golden. With the extras arranged around the chicken on a platter, reduced boiling liquor enriched with butter and cream is poured over.\u201cThis is an amusing way to present a chicken,\u201d Toklas wrote: \u201ca delicious dish\u201d.For Picasso, Toklas cooked a whole fish and covered it with a design of red mayonnaise, sieved hard-boiled eggs, truffles and herbs. Picasso \u201cexclaimed at its beauty\u201d, but commented that it was more in Matisse\u2019s style than his own.But then there were recipes as simple as this:Mutton roasted and basted with port is out of this world. Try it.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_763841\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-763841\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-763841 size-full lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/ch.jfdi.cc\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/hash-fudge-and-a-fish-for-picasso-1.jpg\" alt=\"recipes4 picassos portrait of gertrude stein\" width=\"800\" height=\"629\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-763841\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Picassos portrait of Gertrude Stein<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>So what about the \u201chaschich fudge\u201d? It wasn\u2019t actually an original Toklas: the recipe was contributed by Brion Gysin, in a section of the cookbook with recipes from many of Stein and Toklas\u2019 friends.Gysin was a Canadian experimental artist, who moved to Paris in 1934. He was expelled from the Surrealists by the autocratic control freak Andr\u00e9 Breton. In 1954, he opened a restaurant in Morocco.The fudge does not actually contain hashish, the resin extracted from the cannabis plant. The recipe recommends foraging for wild cannabis sativa or cannabis indica and grinding the dried leaves to add to the fudge.After the censored fudge recipe was finally published in a 1960s US edition of the book, it was transformed into the all-American brownie.In 1968, the year after Toklas died, Peter Sellers starred in the movie I Love You Alice B Toklas. A conservative lawyer is given hash brownies by a young woman and turns into a hippie. He tries to return to his conventional life, but finds that he can\u2019t do it any more.In the final scene, he leaves his fianc\u00e9e at the altar and runs into the street, saying \u201cthere\u2019s gotta be something beautiful out there! There\u2019s got to be. I know it!\u201dWhile Stein gradually became part of the literary canon, Toklas entered the annals of popular culture. In the 1990s, both women were elevated to the ranks of the celestial when craters on the planet Venus were named after them.<strong>\u00a0<\/strong>Alice Gorman is Associate Professor in Archaeology and Space Studies, Flinders University. This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons licenceFollow the<br \/>\nCyprus Mail  on Google News<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Alice B. Toklas, born in San Francisco in 1877, authored one of the bestselling cookbooks of all time, which gained popularity partly due to stories of her 39-year relationship with Gertrude Stein and a recipe for hash fudge, making Toklas an icon of 1960s counterculture. The cookbook was published in 1954 and is semi-autobiographical, including observations on French and American food cultures, culinary tales involving famous friends, and stories of wartime life. Toklas met Stein in Paris in 1907, and they hosted a renowned literary and artistic salon. During WWI, they drove delivery trucks, and in WWII, they waited it out in the country. Stein died in 1946, after which Toklas published her cookbook. Toklas&#8217; literary output includes two cookbooks and a memoir. The hash fudge recipe in her cookbook, contributed by Brion Gysin, recommended using wild cannabis sativa or indica. After Toklas&#8217; death in 1968, she entered popular culture, highlighted by the movie &#8220;I Love You Alice B Toklas&#8221; and the naming of craters on Venus after both Toklas and Stein.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4408,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"Default","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[2195,302,1915,877,695,735,2194,2196,303,3,341,250,156,1295,1259,875,1285,1220,957,335,1535,1424,965,494,380,1944,1100,18],"class_list":["post-4407","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cyprus","tag-alice-b-toklas","tag-art","tag-artist","tag-beauty","tag-cancer","tag-cannabis","tag-cookbook","tag-counterculture","tag-culture","tag-cyprus","tag-food-and-drink","tag-google","tag-hospital","tag-inclusion","tag-migrants","tag-museum","tag-popularity","tag-port","tag-restaurant","tag-space","tag-spring","tag-tourist","tag-trucks","tag-uk","tag-us","tag-woman","tag-women","tag-world"],"acf":{"keyphrase":"","keywords":"","sourceimg":"","country-category":""},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Hash fudge and a fish for Picasso<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"cookbook. cookbook, Alice B. 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