{"id":13128,"date":"2024-05-25T18:01:06","date_gmt":"2024-05-25T15:01:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ch.jfdi.cc\/?p=13128"},"modified":"2024-05-25T18:01:06","modified_gmt":"2024-05-25T15:01:06","slug":"meet-paris-black-dandies-the-sapeurs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ch.jfdi.cc\/?p=13128","title":{"rendered":"Meet Paris, \u2019 black dandies, the Sapeurs"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2 class=\"subTitle\">They have a long, very colourful history<\/h2>\n<p>By Daouda Coulibaly<\/p>\n<p>You can spot them in the streets of Paris or at\u00a0fashion\u00a0events in London, Milan, Brussels or Dubai. Most are black African men with sharp outfits designed and chosen to get them noticed. Known as \u201cSapeurs\u201d \u2013 the name comes from the Society for Ambience and Elegance (Sape) and from French slang \u201cse saper\u201d, \u201cto dress up\u201d \u2013 these figures stand out with their offbeat and baroque sartorial style.<\/p>\n<p>Research by ethnologists and historians indicates that the movement was born in Central Africa, likely at the port of Bacongo, the river that separates the two Congos, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (Congo Republic, North of the river) and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DR Congo, South side).<\/p>\n<p>The subculture got its start around 1919-1920, and by the 1950s, it gained momentum and took off. The first Congolese emigrants (including former infantrymen in Europe) returned home, bringing with them products perceived as luxurious or ceremonial \u2013 branded objects, accessories, clothes and shoes.<\/p>\n<p>It was at this point that the first parades and competitions began in the neighbourhoods of the two Congos\u2019 capitals, Brazzaville and Kinshasa. Based on the same principle as dance battles, Sapeurs show off, demonstrate and prove their skills and abilities \u2013 the gestures and voice, the walk and the look.<\/p>\n<p>More than just dazzling clothes, verbal and visual communication is essential to stand out. So throughout the two cities, crowds formed to watch the jousting, and acclaim these \u201cblack aesthetes\u201d \u2013 living works of art that were better dressed than the colonial authorities themselves.<\/p>\n<p>In the 1970s, Congolese families began to send their children to France to study, and many brought their stylish clothes with them. In Europe, the Sape movement got a new lease of life through young people like singer and composer Aurlus Mabele, the jeweller Djo Ballard, Paris pioneer, Ricley Loubaky, or\u00a0fashion\u00a0designer, Jocelyn Armel, alias \u201cThe Bachelor\u201d, Ben Moukacha, and musician Papa Wemba, also known as the \u201cKing of Rumba Rock\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>From 1984 to 1985, the movement became more established in France, and Paris\u2019 Maison des \u00c9tudiants de Congolais (Congolese Students House) became the cradle of Sape. Pioneers such as Djo Balard, Ben Moukacha, Jocelyn Armel and Nono Ngando (all of whom we met during the course of this research) all pointed to the MEC as the official starting point for authentic Sape.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1131\" height=\"1284\" data-id=\"801788\" src=\"http:\/\/ch.jfdi.cc\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/05\/meet-paris-black-dandies-the-sapeurs.jpg\" alt class=\"wp-image-801788\"><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n<p>Almost everywhere in Africa and in major European capitals, people were talking about this new group of elegant and passionate Africans who frequented the best\u00a0fashion\u00a0boutiques. In just a few years, the Sape movement reached the world and was the talk of Europe, and particularly France.<\/p>\n<p>In 2010, stylist and designer Paul Smith launched a Sape collection, paying tribute to the colourful and quirky style of African Sapeurs. During a 2011 visit to Paris, the English photographer Martin Parr visited the Sapeurs and presented a photo exhibition in the Goutte d\u2019or district that was widely covered by the media. And in 2016, designer Christian Louboutin launched a collection of men\u2019s shoes inspired by the kitendi model \u2013 a reference to the Sape movement in Lingala, a language spoken in much of Central Africa.<\/p>\n<p>Sapeurs are not typical customers for luxury goods. Instead, they are in search of social recognition and actively make brands their own. With its varying degrees of appreciation, luxury is used as a reference point for the group to which they belong.<\/p>\n<p>The movement\u2019s distinctive style is based on a highly codified use of accoutrements, colours and patterns, creating an original outfit beyond the classic Western model. There\u2019s an excess of accessories: shoes, scarves, belts, watches, glasses, hats, cosmetics and perfumes. This profusion exists to underline the Sapeur\u2019s message: it\u2019s all about \u201chitting hard\u201d \u2013 in other words, making a strong impression in a competitive context. Personal creativity, a touch of humour and subtle provocation are all underlined.<\/p>\n<p>The Sapeur seeks to signal his presence to others and be noticed through the wealth of colours and accessories, transforming himself into an actor in the social theatre. With his unique attire, he seized the right to please himself and also to be visible, to exist and to please.<\/p>\n<p>Clothing fulfils a number of functions: practical, utilitarian, institutional, symbolic, and aesthetic. For the Sapeurs, it allows them to make a political statement \u2013 one that pleads for dignity. Sape is the polar opposite of the humiliation associated with poverty and customers who may be perceived as not having the right to step into a luxury clothing shop.<\/p>\n<p>Finally, there\u2019s a very important term in the world of the Sapeurs, and that\u2019s ambiance. They put on a show and seek to crowds and thus encourage sociability. The colourful and luxurious clothes, the flow of words (like a kind of trance), the music and movements and the electric atmosphere provoke collective admiration. This inspires peers\u2019 admiration and so validates the Sapeur\u2019s status.<\/p>\n<p>Daouda Coulibaly is an associate professor at the EDC Paris Business School. Reprinted from theconversation.org under a Creative commons licence<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Sapeurs, known for their offbeat and baroque sartorial style, originated in Central Africa around 1919-1920. They participate in parades and competitions to showcase their skills and abilities in dressing up. The movement gained momentum in the 1950s and expanded to Europe in the 1970s. Sapeurs seek social recognition through luxury brands and use clothing to make a political statement for dignity. They aim to create ambiance and encourage sociability through their colorful and luxurious outfits.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":13129,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"Default","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[10287,589,11198,302,4156,8575,9331,2510,186,5292,5697,3146,8130,269,3471,2842,3190,201,3343,1468,5596,763,499,9046,7074,450,2952,4442,8232,699,1264,6730,1220,323,7320,10845,10778,6074,3839,11197,433,6238,2019,1827,3378,226,4100,11199,6305,18,7053],"class_list":["post-13128","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-other","tag-actor","tag-africa","tag-african-fashion","tag-art","tag-atmosphere","tag-authorities","tag-battles","tag-brussels","tag-business","tag-children","tag-collection","tag-communication","tag-composer","tag-congo","tag-customers","tag-dance","tag-dignity","tag-europe","tag-events","tag-exhibition","tag-families","tag-fashion","tag-france","tag-house","tag-licence","tag-london","tag-media","tag-message","tag-movements","tag-music","tag-parades","tag-paris","tag-port","tag-poverty","tag-products","tag-recognition","tag-republic","tag-research","tag-river","tag-sapeurs","tag-school","tag-search","tag-shop","tag-statement","tag-students","tag-theatre","tag-visit","tag-visual-communication","tag-who","tag-world","tag-young-people"],"acf":{"keyphrase":"","keywords":"","sourceimg":"","country-category":""},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Meet Paris, \u2019 black dandies, the Sapeurs<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Fashion. 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